Feb. 7, 2014
Next up was a piecemeal section of the trip that took in a varied set of sights and helped us get to know the new passengers who joined in Lima. On the first day we took a boat trip out to the Ballestas Islands, a nature reserve that is informally known as “the poor man’s galapagos”. Living there are penguins, sea birds, sea lions and seals. The speed boat out was a little wet and wild (and in fact the return trip was even wetter and wilder) so we all got soaked (twice) but the microclimate around the islands themselves was calm and warm, and we all got good value out of our cameras (if they still worked that is).
Tags: South America, Peru, Nazca Lines, Thirteen, Fourteen
Jan. 12, 2014
From Punta Sal we took a long driving down to Huanchaco, via a stop off at the Lord of Saipan museum. The lord of Saipan is a Moche mummy found dressed in all manner of gold and surrounded by artefacts and other sacrifices (including other humans and decapitated llamas). The tour took a while to get going (our guide was late) but the exhibition was so amazing (the pieces were painstakingly restored in Germany) that it was hugely enjoyable.
Tags: South America, Peru, Beach, Lima, Thirteen, Fourteen
Dec. 31, 2013
After Cuenca we set off for the Peruvian border. One of the great advantages of having a UK passport in South America is that you don’t need any visas. If you’re Australian or Canadian it’s a different story. Nevertheless we all got over the border with very little trouble (the third ever land border crossing of my life) apart from the bits where they seem to make you wait in a queue just for the sake of making you wait in a queue.
Tags: South America, Ecuador, Peru, Beach, Thirteen
Dec. 28, 2013
After Baños, we set off for Cuenca, which is a town in the south of Ecuador. Being a long drive, the journey was broken up with our first excursion to some inca ruins, a large complex at Ingapirca with a sun temple. It was built on an earlier site that dated back to about the 9th century and the Inca then conquered the area and built on top of it, as they tended to while their empire was expanding out from Peru to the south in the 11th and 12th centuries.
Tags: South America, Ecuador, Thirteen
Dec. 21, 2013
We left Misahualli for Baños via an hour in nearby Tena to get something for the truck fixed. After that the drive to Banos was pretty short - or at least it seemed that way as I alternated between dozing off, snapping the scenery and… well… dozing off some more. We arrived at a campsite about twenty minutes taxi ride from Banos and this was it, the thing I’d feared most about this trip: the camping.
Tags: South America, Ecuador, Camping, Thirteen
Dec. 19, 2013
I’m a bit behind in my posts about the trip and this post interrupts the sequence of events somewhat, just because I’ve not felt that well and that has dominated my thoughts about what to write. Basically for a week or two I’ve had varying degrees of bellyache and it’s not been fun. Instead of feeling the gratitude and excitement I’ve felt since being here, I’ve spent a lot of time wanting to curl up in the corner and just be… well… somewhere else.
Tags: South America, Peru, Self Improvement, Thirteen
Dec. 2, 2013
Otavalo Sunday (24th November) was our first day of travel and involved a four hour trip to Otavalo, a town to the north of Quito that is famous for its market… on Saturdays. The journey got us better acquainted with travel on our truck Magaly and we encountered a few of the little hiccups that are a natural part of travelling this way: power lines crashing down on to the highway, driver of your truck asking a policeman to take a photo of your truck snagged under the wires, wrong turns, and - funniest of all - getting a whole block’s worth of concerned locals to watch as your truck tries to turn a corner.
Tags: South America, Ecuador, Amazon, Thirteen
Nov. 29, 2013
By the time this goes up, I will be at least a week in to my South American tour. I flew out to Ecuador last Thursday (the 21st) and ended up being awake for more than twenty four hours. My flight left London early and I had a three hour stopover in Madrid, then a twelve hour flight onward to Quito. My bag didn’t leave Madrid though, so we were separated for about twenty four nerve-racking hours.
Tags: South America, Ecuador, Quito, Thirteen
Oct. 31, 2013
Four great albums this month for the last album digest in a while.
CHVRCHES “The Bones Of What You Believe” I first got into CHVRCHES on Record Store Day, one of my purchases was an Irn Bru coloured 12" of the Recover EP that, according to eBay, tripled in value over night. Judging by this, their full debut, my see-through orange slab of happiness may hold its value, because it’s clear that CHVRCHES should be around for the long haul.
Tags: Album Digest, October, Music, Chvrches, Darkside, Four Tet, HAIM, Thirteen
Oct. 21, 2013
As I mentioned in a previous post, I baked a chocolate cake the other day and it was a great success. Here is the recipe, which is a trivial modification of one that appears in Nigel Slater’s “Real Food” (Amazon links: UK, US). “Real Food” is a cookbook that I genuinely treasure. The modification I have made for this recipe is to omit the espresso but I will point out where it should be added, in case you want to give that a try.
Tags: Recipe, Thirteen, Nigel Slater
Oct. 18, 2013
I have mixed feelings about this show. On the one hand, I like that there are depictions of working class Britain on display and I feel that it is right that these paintings are considered part of the British cultural canon. I also like that a lot of these paintings represent large gatherings of people, which are absent from a lot of what we might call the mainstream of art.
Tags: Art, L. S. Lowry, Tate Britain, Thirteen
Oct. 16, 2013
Previously on… I planned this post as a follow-up to one called The Truth About Work from a couple of months ago, but a few things happened that changed my thinking. It has implications for my future and in particular, it redefines what this break from work and upcoming trip means to me.
One of the punchlines to “The Truth About Work” was that, sometimes, the only way to move ahead is to quit.
Tags: Life Experiences, Self Improvement, Work, Thirteen